Welcome to Cēsis! Get ready to explore Latvia’s medieval capital of the north — a town packed with stone castles, candlelit cellars, centuries-old brewhouses, and forest trails that start just steps from the main square. Thousands come each year to climb crumbling towers, stroll cobbled streets once walked by crusader knights, and get a close-up look at the country’s most iconic castle ruins.
☑️ Cēsis Checklist
- Book your Flight: Land at Riga International Airport (RIX), then take a 2-hour train or drive to Cēsis
- Reserve your Hotel: Stay in the Old Town for quick access to historic sites and walkable restaurants
- Join your Tour: Reserve a candlelit castle tour or a guided hike in Gauja National Park
🏰 Day 1: Castle & Old Town
- Cēsis Castle Ruins: Start at the main attraction — climb the spiral stone tower with a lantern in hand and step through rooms that haven’t changed in 800 years
- Cēsis Castle Gardens: Walk the manicured paths around the ruins and check out the stone cannonballs left from 16th-century sieges
- Cēsis History and Art Museum: Head into the New Castle next door to see period furniture, black-and-white photographs, and a top-floor view over the red rooftops
- Saint John’s Church: Step inside Latvia’s oldest medieval church, where the stone floors are worn from centuries of footsteps and the organ still fills the space with thunder
- Lunch in the Old Brewery Cellar: Order smoked pork, pickled vegetables, and dark rye bread in a candlelit cellar where the beer used to be brewed
- Cēsis Old Town Square: Wander past small wooden houses, boutiques, and souvenir shops selling wool socks, honey, and linen napkins
- Evening Beer Tasting: Try local craft brews — from honey ales to Baltic porters — at a taproom just off the square, where the bar is always full of locals and the pretzels come free
🌲 Day 2: National Park
- Gauja National Park Morning Hike: Start early on a marked forest trail — you’ll pass sandstone cliffs, wooden bridges, and maybe a deer or two if you’re quiet
- Ērgļu Cliffs Viewpoint: Stop at this riverside cliff lookout for a wide-open view of the Gauja River and its winding valley
- Ligatne Soviet Bunker Tour: Head underground at this Cold War-era shelter once built for top Latvian officials — it still has the phones, gas masks, and canned food
- Lunch at a Forest Guesthouse: Sit outside if the weather’s right and eat smoked trout or potato pancakes with sour cream under tall pines
- Amata River Stop: Dip your feet in or just sit and listen — it’s a short, quiet break before heading back
- Evening Return to Cēsis: Grab a snack from the train station kiosk (they’re known for their fresh pastries) or walk the forest path back into town if you’ve got the energy
- Live Music at Maija Park: During summer, catch a local jazz trio or Latvian folk band playing under the open sky near the fountain
🔥 Day 3: Markets & Medieval Farewell
- Cēsis Farmer’s Market: Browse stalls with birch sap, homemade jam, smoked cheese, beeswax candles, and seasonal berries sold by the handful
- Art Space in an Old Warehouse: Check out rotating exhibits from Latvian painters and textile artists — the building still smells faintly of sawdust and oil
- Riekstu Hill Park Walk: Climb the small hill just outside town for a view of tiled rooftops and green ridgelines — popular with locals for a morning run or picnic
- Afternoon Coffee Break: Sit at an outdoor table on Rīgas iela with a slice of Latvian honey cake and a strong coffee that’ll keep you going
- Souvenir Shopping: Pick up carved wooden spoons, linen kitchen towels, local herbal tea blends, and mittens knit in centuries-old patterns
- Sunset at Castle Park: Watch the light hit the ruins one last time — bring a bottle of local cider and toast the end of the trip
- Farewell Medieval Feast: Book a table at a restored stone tavern for a full meal served the old-fashioned way — roast duck, barley stew, mead in clay cups, and servers in period clothing. Musicians sometimes perform old Latvian ballads, and you’ll be expected to join the final toast.
📅 Cēsis Calendar
- Cēsis Art Festival (July): Performances, exhibitions, and workshops across the entire town
- Medieval Festival at Cēsis Castle (July): Sword fights, blacksmith demos, archery, and full-costume reenactments inside the castle ruins
- Līgo (June 23–24): Latvia’s midsummer celebration — flower crowns, bonfires, and singing through the night
- Autumn Walks Week (Oct): Guided forest hikes and nature photography events in Gauja National Park
- Winter Solstice Fair (Dec): Traditional crafts, solstice rituals, and hot mulled drinks in the castle courtyard
- Cēsis Christmas Market (Dec): Wooden stalls selling ornaments, gingerbread, and warm wool accessories
- Independence Day (Nov 18): Fireworks and flag displays across the town square and castle park
💡 Cēsis Tips
- Trains are Reliable: The Riga–Cēsis line is affordable, scenic, and on time
- Pack for Layers: Even in summer, evenings can be chilly, especially in the forests
- Museum Signs Are Multilingual: Most have Latvian, English, and Russian descriptions
- Book Castle Tours Ahead: Candlelit night tours sell out quickly in high season
- Markets Close Early: Most farmer stalls are packed up by 1PM
- Try the Rye Bread: Locally baked, dense, and slightly sweet — it’s served with nearly everything
- Locals Speak English: Especially younger people — just start with a polite “Sveiki” (hello)
🍖 Cēsis Menu
- Grey Peas with Bacon: A Latvian staple — hearty and salty, served warm with sour cream
- Smoked Trout: Caught in local rivers, filleted and smoked until rich and flaky
- Barley Stew: Slow-cooked with root vegetables and pork — thick enough to stand a spoon in
- Potato Pancakes: Crisp-edged and served with sour cream or lingonberry jam
- Honey Cake: Thin layers of spiced cake and cream — usually homemade, always gone fast
- Wild Mushroom Soup: Earthy and rich, made from foraged mushrooms and heavy cream
- Cēsis Mead: Brewed nearby — slightly sweet, served chilled or warm depending on the season